Monday, October 28, 2013
End of earth is nigh
Ahhh, how nice to have a good sleep! The extra hour of winter time (the clocks changed back!) did wonders. I seemed to have a leisurely morning, even had a shower, and went down for breakfast. There was a group of peregrines I hadn't really met there yet, except seen in the past few days, including here for dinner last night. I assumed they'd also been here for the night. No, they had stayed in the Alberge, but came here to eat. They listened to my CF spiel and took the postcards, and I had breakfast with them.
And this is how I met Niall and Oonagh, English teachers who had been teaching in Spain for three years, and were finishing off with the Camino. Birgitta from Sweden and Claire from Melbourne. A Camino formed family. Claire went off to scout ahead, and the other three asked if I'd walk with them. I told them I'd walk the flats with them but they shouldn't wait for me on the uphills. I said I'd see them in the next cafe. But no, these perigrines were sincere and actually waited for me regularly to catch up. They even stopped in the cafe for a coffee and drink, Niall even enjoying a morning beer (USA/Scottish heritage). My style of walking.
The track went straight up the hills, particularly pleasant track, muddy and rocky and no traffic. And the rain started same time we did. We passed a cool patch of track covered in green stones. We all picked one up to take home: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenstone_belt
The rain and wind picked up to the point where I said this was the worst I'd had on the Camino. But Niall told me that on the Meseta they had the worst of rain we got today for 6 hours straight with winds 5x harder. Perhaps I was lucky... I must also say my memory only ever remembers happy events.
After noon we started seeing patches of coast in the distance, whenever the clouds gave us a gap. And there it was, the Atlantic Ocean! And there is Cee, the town we are heading for down there, with the hamlets of Corcubion and Opcion on the other side.
A steep track took us down to the towns, and we soon found a cafe for a late lunch. To get there we walked through one cafe with very surprised people who watched us squeeze through their narrow cafe. We entered it thinking it might be nice, walked through to the other side, where there was another entry, and decided it wasnt that nice and exited. There had been nothing for 12 kilometres since our last coffee stop. I had every intention of staying in Cee, but decided that I could walk a bit further yet. My ankle had been hurting all day for some reason, but all my other ailments had vanished. I blame the beer with lunch for me wanting to carry on with Niall and company.
Below is Oonagh on her way down the steep slippery road down to Cee.
Here I am following Birgitta out of town, up the next 100+m hill. Good company sure makes walking easy.
We are getting so close to Finsterra now, it is scary. Even the cat is trying to tell us something. It didn't like the miaowing sound my camera makes when I turn it on or take a photo (yes, customisable sounds).
Oonagh decided to find a hotel 7km before Fisterra and walk in tomorrow, and I certainly was ready to call it a day. It was almost 6pm and we'd done about 25kms. It all seemed easy, but my ankle was really quite sore. We found a beautiful little hotel with a pizza restaurant below it; Pension Nicola in Sardiñeiro. Pizza and beer for dinner!
Rebecca and the gang posted in Facebook they took an excursion to Finisterre today and saw the spot where dirty pilgrims jump in the sea and burn their stuff. That'll be me tomorrow, yeah!! Oh, and I got messages from Sauffie who seems to be heading to Finisterre as well, and Charlene got there today. Maybe we'll see Joke there. Who knows!